Varanasi and the Sweet Smell of Death

Its been 4 days now in Varanasi and the one word I can sum it up with is, WOW.... This place is just as full of life as it is death. And not death in a bad sense, but a good one.

I have spent every morning so far in the same routine...

At 5:30am I head down to the Ganga. The River Ganga (Internationally known as Ganges River) is where all the action is. The shore is lined with Ghats which are holy sites where you can find people bathing, washing clothes, making Pudja (prayer), meditation, Baba's (holy men), temples, and so on. Aside from these unique sights, the Ghats are main attraction is the cremations. As you walk the multicolored ancient steps of the Ghats, your constantly aware of the scent burning of wood, incense, and human flesh. It doesn't necessarily smell bad but it is what it is and its hard to describe. Around the fires sit the family members and friends, all watching, talking, and grieving. They stack the wood and place the body in the middle, waiting for 3 1/2 hours till the body has been turned to ash. The body is placed in the middle for two reasons. First so it burns faster, and second because when the skin shrinks, the arms and legs rise up. This is super freaky and looks almost like they are coming back to life. If it happens, the person in charge of maintaining the fire has to push the limbs back down. The cremations are a very special and sacred experience to observe and this happens all day into the late evening. Whats also interesting about Varanasi is that its a city of the walking dead. People from all over the country come here to sit and die in order to be burned on the shores of the Ganga. But this doesn't make for depressing atmosphere. Its calming and welcoming to see people sitting so complacently while awaiting and enjoying their last hours.

After walking the Ghats, I head to a temple tucked away into the city where I attend a one hour yoga class in the courtyard. Its a very unique spot where the temple towers over you. The only thing that hinders the experience is the noise which is ever present. Whether its dogs barking, horns blaring, or my yoga instructor who is coughing up flem every 5 minutes. After yoga I head back to my guest to mellow out and have some breakfast on the rooftop, over looking the Ganga.

At this point its usually around 9:30am and the rest of the day is filled with shopping, getting lost in the city, exploring the Ghats, talking to interesting people and chilling out. The scene here is so relaxed and peaceful making everything really easy.

Tomorrow I repeat this morning routine for the last time as I am leaving for the city of Jodhpur, which is a 24 hour train ride away into Rajastan. Before I leave however, I'm going to see a holy Baba for a reading. He will assess my palms, aura, and astrology to determine my past, present, and future. Should make for an eventful last day.